TY'S MODEL RAILROAD

Kate’s Colonial Home Kit by Atlas

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 1/29/2012 01:37:00 PM

With a 4’ x 8’ layout, there is very limited room for structures, especially after you factor in track space and terrain. As I don't have the real estate for a full-sized town and residential areas, I instead have to represent these zones with only one or two structures. For the residential aspect of my layout, I have room for one house. For this I chose the Kate’s Colonial Home kit by Atlas.

I liked the buildings yellow and forest green colour theme so I used very similar colours when I painted the exterior. I did however change the roof shingle colour to a dark brown instead of the recommended light grey. The great thing about Atlas kits is their injection mold process results in high quality, detailed, and precise parts that fit together easily with little to no prep work.

Construction of a small styrene light diffuser box for a Kate’s Colonial Home kit by Atlas

First floor custom interior scene for a Kate’s Colonial Home kit by Atlas

The window coverings are printed on photo paper which I glued to the inside walls. Because I wanted to light the house, I had to add a layer of dark cardstock to the inside of the walls so light wouldn’t shine through the plastic wall. To light the structure, I used the same method as in my Walthers Merchant’s Row I kit by building a small light diffuser box out of styrene. I built the interior walls around the light box with thick cardstock, allowing light to glow through small doorways.

First floor custom interior scene with installed styrene light diffuser box for a Kate’s Colonial Home kit

Second floor custom interior scene with installed styrene light diffuser box for a Kate’s Colonial Home kit

Once the first floor was completed, I added a styrene floor for the second level. I used the same cardstock wall method that I used for the first floor, building around the light diffuser box. I then added a cardstock ceiling to the second floor rooms to prevent any light from glowing though up to the attic windows and into the roof section. This ceiling can be removed (along with the actual roof) to access the light diffuser box in the event of a burnt out bulb.

Second floor custom interior scene cardstock ceiling for a Kate’s Colonial Home kit by Atlas

The kit was weathered using a semi-soft paintbrush and dry pastels that I ground up into a fine powder. I made sure almost all of the pastel was off of the brush before applying it to the building as it isn’t very forgiving. A final spray of Testors dull coat sealed in the pastel weathering. The chimney and foundation mortar were coloured using thinned black and white washes.

Completed Kate’s Colonial Home kit by Atlas showing interior lighting effects

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Model Kits

The Other Corner Café Kit by DPM Landmark Structures

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 1/29/2012 01:27:00 PM

Completed DPM The Other Corner Café kit modeled as a bank

I wanted to add a bank to my small commercial district and the DPM Other Corner Café kit by Woodland Scenics fit the bill perfectly. This was my first DPM kit and if you have never built one either, it’s a very good idea to follow the preparation directions before assembling the model. The Design Preservation Model (DPM) series kits have high quality details and styrene but do require a good amount of sanding and trimming before assembly.

As I did with my Merchant’s Row I kit, I used small strips of masking tape to mask the windows and trim before painting the brick walls. Once the walls were dry, I covered the newly painted sections so I could now paint the trim and window frames. After drying for 24 hours, any touch-ups were made with a small detailing brush. The masking is tedious but worth it in the end. However, it’s only effective if it’s done correctly and carefully. If not, you will have a ton of touch-ups to deal with. The structure was then brushed with dark powdered pastels for weathering effects and sealed with a final coat of Testors dull coat.

Removable interior scene depicting a bank with a styrene light diffuser attached on top for Other Corner Café kit

Most DPM models do not come with a pre-molded roof or base though bulk styrene is provided for at least the roof. This needs to be cut to fit. A length of strip styrene is also provided to create supports for the roof panel. Clear bulk styrene is also included for the window glazing. Window blinds were used from the same templates I used on previous structures that I built.

I built the interior structure of this building in almost the exact same way as may Merchant’s Row I kit, utilizing my light diffuser box method. The first level interior of the building is built upon a removable styrene base with the light box installed on second floor. The removable base allows access to the bulb in case it ever needs to be changed.

Custom built styrene light diffuser box with bulb and steel wire leads for Other Corner Café kit

I built the bank’s teller desks out of scrap styrene pieces, as well as the large support column which actually supports the light diffuser box on top. The bank’s floor is a tile design that I made in Adobe Photoshop and printed on matte photo paper. The walls are coloured cardstock.

The second level interiors are attached directly to the main structure. I built these with a combination of coloured cardstock and styrene which I secured directly to the inside walls. When the base and light box are inserted, the light box sits just behind the second level interior rooms. To allow light into the rooms, I simply cut doorways into the back walls. For the rooms I didn’t want to light, I simply omitted cutting in a door.

Custom second level interior made of cardstock for a DPM The Other Corner Café kit

I decorated the final structure with dry transfer decals from Woodland Scenics as well as a vertical corner sign that was left over from my Merchant’s Row I kit. For the roof material, I used medium burnt cinders from Woodland Scenics which I spread about 1/8” thick. I then secured the cinders with thinned white glue that I applied with a small pipette, mixed with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to break the glue mixture’s surface tension.

Sand covered roof of a completed DPM The Other Corner Café kit modeled as a bank

Completed DPM The Other Corner Café kit modeled as a bank showing interior lighting effects

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Model Kits

Atlas Turntable Upgrade

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 1/16/2012 10:34:00 PM

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Plaster Terrain

Plaster Hardshell Terrain

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 12/27/2011 08:36:00 PM

Final layer of plaster being applied by hand to hard shell terrain

For my terrain structure, I opted to use the hard-shell method. This consists of cardboard strips, plaster infused paper towels, and a final layer of plaster. This seemed to be a popular, tried and tested method. The materials are very cheap and the end results are very effective.

Cardboard strips being installed to the sides of a track grade to form the base for hard shell terrain

Cardboard strips being installed to the sides of a track grades and benchwork to form the base for hard shell terrain

I first started by cutting several different length strips from a cardboard box, all between 1/2" and 1" wide. The strips were then bent to the desired curvature and fastened to the benchwork with either white glue and staples. I spaced each strip about 1" apart. For most of the strips, I didn’t require horizontal support strips except where the vertical strips were longer and tended to sag. Crumpled newsprint under the strips also helped with support in some areas.

Cardboard strips and crumpled paper balls being applied to model railroad benchwork to form hard shell terrain

I also incorporated some crock outcroppings that I had cast with plaster. For the more rugged looking terrain features, I used the same crumpled paper method that I used for my mountain tunnel. For future planned roads, I simply cut a desired sized piece of cardboard and attached it just as I did with the other strips, ensuring a smooth grade from the upper level to the lower ground level.

Paper towel strips soaked in plaster being applied on top of cardboard strips to form hard shell terrain

The next step was to cover the cardboard strips with plaster-impregnated paper towels. For this, I tore sheets of paper towel into strips at various widths. Preparing a good mixture of thin and wide strips cardboard strips makes it a lot easier to cover larger and smaller areas.

I mixed powder drywall compound into a large, shallow container with water. This took a little trial and error to get the right consistency; if too thin the paper towel strips will dry and peel and have no rigidity. If too thick, the paper towel will just rip under the weight. Good quality, brand name paper towel also helps immensely. I had to keep stirring the plaster mixture as I worked as the plaster tended to settle to the bottom of the container. Adding a bit of water to the mixture as I worked will also keep things flowing.

Once I had found the proper plaster mixture, I dipped in each strip of paper towel, wiping off the majority of excess plaster from the strips with my fingers. I then positions the paper towel strips horizontally across the cardboard strips, overlapping them for added strength. I didn’t worry too much if the paper towel strips sagged a bit between the cardboard support strips as this would be leveled off later with the final plaster layer. I used my fingers to smooth the strips as much as possible.

After 24 hours the paper towel shell was dry and I was left with a rigid, somewhat brittle shell. I then applied a layer of plaster to the shell. This adds strength to the plaster shell and levels out any seams or sagging spots that may have formed. I used a gypsum based plaster but made the mistake of using a pre-mixed product. This is much more prone to cracking and shrinking compared to dry mix so, I had to go back and fill several cracks that had formed. I also cast a retaining wall right in front of the turn table using a cardboard mold that I made. The wall is cast with plaster of Paris and detailed with hand carved bricks.

Plaster retaining wall cast in place with plaster of Paris between two benchwork elevations

Once the first layer of plaster dried, I spread a second, final layer of plaster over the entire shell, thicker in some areas to eliminate low spots. I blended in all of the rock outcroppings and filled in any holes or cracks. I used a combination of my hands and small plastic spatulas to smooth and level the plaster layer and blend it with the existing bridge abutments and terrain. Ground foam and dirt will fill in any deficiencies in the plaster once it's added. I still have a few things to touch up but I can finally say that the plaster hard-shell is complete.

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Bridge

Bridge Abutments

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 11/06/2011 04:42:00 PM

Single plaster bridge abutment made from plaster of paris with carved brick pattern in its face

I’ve been avoiding the construction of the abutments for my trestle and bridge for a while, mostly because I didn’t have the slightest idea of how I was going to construct them. I am now at the point where I cannot continue my layout terrain without the abutments being in place. I knew I wanted the abutments to have a brick look, so I started to do some research on how to accomplish this. I found two options; the first to use brick textured styrene and the second was to cast the abutments in plaster. I opted with the latter option, mainly due to cost and availability.

5 cardboard bridge abutment templates numbered 1 through 5 laying on newsprint

I first started by making a cardboard template of each abutment to ensure that it fit properly on the layout. I notated on each template the front and back so I didn’t mix them up. I used each template to create a basic form out of heavy cardstock and masking tape, ensuring that the face of the mold was level and flat. It's important to remember that the form needs to be built in the REVERSE direction of the front of your structure. In other words, the template needs to be mirrored and should lay in the form back-side facing up. This is a mistake that I narrowly avoided, which would have resulted in backwards abutments.

Cardboard bridge abutment template beside a matching cardstock plaster mold

I used plaster of Paris for the castings, mixing it until smooth. I then quickly filled the form to about 1/2" thick, shaking the form to evenly settle the plaster. While the plaster set, I butted books up against each edge of the form to prevent the form’s walls from bowing outward. Cardstock worked fine for this type of casting, as long as the plaster wasn’t too wet which would warp and tear the form.

Single plaster bridge abutment made from plaster of paris

After the casting set for about 10-15 minutes, I gently tore away the paper form. I then smoothed out and rough edges, which were most apparent on the back side. At this point the plaster was solid, but still wet enough to carve. I used a ruler and a scissor blade to carve the brick pattern. After the cast was a little more firm, I etched cracks and gouges in the bricks to make them look a bit more weathered. I then gave the abutment a final brush with a firm nylon brush which gave the plaster some texture while removing any loose plaster pieces.

Because plaster of Paris has such a fast setting time and thus a very short window to work with, I only cast and carved one abutment at a time. If I had even poured two at the same time, the second would be too hard to carve by the time I finished the first.

Five completed custom plaster bridge abutments displayed together on newsprint

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Model Kits

White Tower Restaurant Kit by Walthers

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 10/19/2011 02:51:00 PM

Completed Walthers White Castle kit displayed on a kitchen table

I recently completed my Walther’s White Tower Restaurant kit. I completed it in just a couple days, opposed to my last two structures which took over a month! I know the kit is a lot simpler then my last two structures, however as my skills get better, so does the time that it takes to complete them.

Completed Walthers White Castle kit displayed on a kitchen counter

Like my Merchant’s Row I kit, this one needed a lot of masking. The kit calls for white exterior walls and silver trim, but I decided to change this. I first sprayed the walls with Testor’s light aircraft gray paint. Once dry, I started carefully masking the exterior trim by cutting very small pieces of masking tape and smoothing it down with a small flat head jeweler’s screwdriver. I then hand painted the trim a dark gray.

Custom interior scene consisting of counters, tables, and a black and white checkered floor for a White Castle kit

I scratch built the entire interior, including the tables, benches, and counters, all from styrene. The black and white tile flooring I made in Photoshop and is a printed on copy paper. For lighting, I used a small 12v automotive bulb that I attached to the top corner of the kitchen walls. I hid the leads behind the kitchen walls so they were out of sight and have them exiting the building out of the rear base.

Custom interior scene showing interior lighting wiring for a Walthers White Castle kit

Just like I did for my Merchant’s Row I kit, the exterior of the building simply slides over the interior, making for very easy access to the inside if I ever need to change the light bulb or interior. I did not use the window glazing that was included in this kit, as it was very poor quality and opaque. I instead used clear styrene from Evergreen.

Completed Walthers White Castle kit with steel awning supports

The window awnings were designed in Photoshop and printed on printer paper. I cut the awnings out and glued them to a thin strip of styrene. I drilled small holes with a thumb drill into the exterior walls and shaped supports out of thin steel wire, which then slid into the holes. I then glued the awnings to the supports and exterior wall.

Side of a completed Walthers White Castle kit displayed on a kitchen table

The decals used were included with the kit, however I did some slight modifications. The “White Castle Hamburgers” decals also had “5 cents” and “buy a bagful!” in the design, but I opted to not include these as it made the signs look too cluttered and dated. For the decals, I first sprayed a gloss coat to the structure and added the decal once the gloss coat was dry. The decal was then covered with a second coat of glass paint. This method reduces the visibility of the glossy decal backing. I then sprayed the entire structure with dull coat to get rid of the gloss.

A lit interior scene consisting of counters, tables, and a black and white checkered floor for a White Castle kit

Completed Walthers White Castle kit with lighting effects on display on a kitchen counter

The the same time, I also built a small Atlas Telephone Shanty kit which I purchased for $0.99 at a hobby clearance store in Calgary last month.

Completed Atlas Telephone Pole and Shanty kit

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Model Kits

Merchant's Row I Kit by Walthers

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 10/07/2011 05:02:00 PM

Front of a completed Walthers Merchant’s Row I kit displayed on a kitchen counter

The weather this September was nicer then it was in July and August, making it difficult to stay indoors and work on my layout, especially in my dark basement. However, even with the beautiful weather I still managed to find some time to finally tackle my Walthers Merchants Row I kit.

Partially constructed and painted Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 kit with masking tape applied around trim

I received this kit as a Christmas gift last year from a friend and finally pulled it out of the box about two months ago. I started by constructing the basic shell; the four walls and two doorways, leaving the roof and window glazing off at this point. I finalized my paint schemes before I started painting, comparing colours on paper to ensure they didn’t clash with each other.

Partially constructed and painted Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 kit with masking tape applied around windows

This structure has lots of detailed sections and components, all on one common piece of styrene. I found that you need two basic skills to successfully paint this: patience and masking. After painting each section, I ensured the paint was completely dry before moving on. This ensured that overlapping colours did not bleed together and that I didn’t accidentally put my fingers in wet paint. Masking tape is essential for straight, crisp lines. I don’t have a very steady hand so painting a straight edge freehand is almost impossible for me.

Partially constructed Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 kit with completed paint scheme on store fronts

I used a hobby knife to cut small pieces of masking tape for almost all straight edges and used a small flat jeweler’s screwdriver to push the masking tape into hard to reach areas. This came in especially handy when painting the window frames. The extra time it took to mask and allow the paint to dry really made the difference in the end, not to mention how it made up for the shortfalls in my free-hand painting skills.

Paint scheme on the back of a Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 kit

Paint scheme on the left side of a Walthers Merchant’s Row 1 kit

Once the basic structure was painted, I used a white wash on the red brick sections to colour the mortar then sprayed the entire model with Testor's Dull Coat. I then used clear styrene for the window glazing. For the blinds, I used Google image search to find several different types of blinds then shrunk them down in Adobe Photoshop to the sizes I needed. I printed the blinds out on a colour printer, cut them out and glued them to the back of the clear styrene windows. You can find these templates on my Design & Construction page.

Printed window blinds on a sheet of 8x10 photo paper

I wanted do a couple interior scenes as well as add interior lighting. I was posed with two issues however. The first was that I did not want to light every window in the structure, and second was that I needed to divide up the interior. Dividing up the interior was important as the kit has so many windows that it looked unrealistic when you looked in a window at one end and could see all the way through to the other end.

Scratch built interior styrene walls on the first floor of a Merchant’s Row 1 kit

To divide the structure into interior rooms, I first cut a base from a bulk sheet of styrene which fit perfectly inside the structure to act as the floor. I then made interior walls with styrene, gluing them to the base. I made sure that the building’s shell slid easily over this interior unit, ensuring that the interior walls didn’t bind against the exterior shell. I built the interior as a removable insert so I could more easily work on it. This also provides future access to the inside scenes.

Interior scene details of a Merchant’s Row 1 kit showing a café, barber shop and an antique store

Interior scene details of an antique shop inside a Merchant’s Row 1 kit

I used textured craft paper for the flooring and walls that mimics carpet and wood flooring and painted walls. I put a large piece of cardstock towards the back of the interior unit, reaching all the way up to the roof. This is to block out all light from reaching the rear windows of the building. For the second floor, I built individual small rooms from a combination of styrene and cardstock which I then glued directly to the inside of the outer shell. For the rooms I wanted lit, I simply cut a small doorway opening to allow light in at the back of each room.

Interior scene details of a barber shop inside a Merchant’s Row 1 kit

The interior scenes are furnished mostly with painted accessories from a Model Power interior accessories kit. I printed small photographs and paintings I found online on a colour printer then cut them out and glued them to the walls to represent full sized artwork.

Interior scene details of a cafe inside a Merchant’s Row 1 kit

For the grocery and clothing storefronts, I built small photo holders from styrene and glued these behind the windows. I then took images of real storefronts, re-sized them, printed on a colour printer and inserted them into these small holders behind the window glazing. I now have storefronts that look like they have real window displays. You can read full instructions on this method in the October 2011 edition of Model Railroader magazine.

A long, narrow illuminated styrene light diffuser box with 3 – 12 volt bulbs

Lighting the unit is achieved by a light box that I built out of styrene. It is lit with three small 12 volt incandescent bulbs and is painted black on the top, back. This is so light only glows from the front and bottom. The box sits snugly in a slot I left in the building above the main floor walls and behind the second floor rooms. Light from the bottom of the light box illuminates all of the main level interiors, while the light glowing from the front of the light box lights the top level rooms through the small doorways. I opted to use a light box as the styrene diffuses the light evenly and reduces harsh shadows. The incandescent bulbs are preferred over LED’s as they have a warm, yellow glow which is difficult to replicate with LED bulbs.

Interior scene structure made of styrene for a Merchant’s Row 1 kit

Custom built interior rooms and light diffuser made from styrene and cardstock for the second floor of a Merchant’s Row 1 kit

I finished the model with dry transfer decals from Woodland Scenics. I applied these directly to the window gazing and signs included with the Merchant’s row kit. The “Mitch’s Antiques” and “T&B Clothing” signs, as well as the coke product logos were all printed on photo paper then cut and glued to the structure and signs. I'm very pleased with the final result. I took my time on this one, and I think it paid off!

I’ve now started working on a Walthers White Tower kit, which I plan on building as a bank. The cold fall weather is definitely here and summer is officially gone. Time to start working again in my basement on my actual layout!