TY'S MODEL RAILROAD

Freight Station by POLA

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 7/24/2011 03:17:00 PM

Completed HO Scale POLA Freight Station sitting on top of its original box

I’ve taken a little break from my layout and instead decided to spend the last few weeks trying my hand at my very first model building. The last time I put together any kind of model was a couple car kits that I built when I was in my early teens. This kit was given to me by my partner who found it mixed in with a bunch of junk at a local thrift store. The kit is an old POLA-HO Freight Station, model #557. I was surprised to find that all the pieces intact inside the kit and nothing was missing except a couple small accessories. This would be a perfect practice kit!

HO Scale POLA Freight Station original box

The kit was missing its instruction manual but it was pretty self explanatory how everything went together. I did however change a few things with the roof. I didn’t like how far the roof extended out from the front of the building to cover the loading deck and how it extended the full length of the building. This overhang covered too much of the first floor windows and doors so I cut it back and removed the overhang between the first and second floors.

I used Humbrol enamel paints mixed at 1:1 with paint thinner. Recalling my plastic car models from when I was younger, I remember never really worked successfully with enamel paints. With patience and determination however, the painting went pretty well for my first attempt. I used a wash of white acrylic to colour the mortar between the bricks and a black wash for the deck surface and base. I sealed everything in with a coat of Testor's Dull Coat.

Completed HO Scale POLA Freight Station sitting on top of its original box showing interior lighting effects

I also built a small interior scene of a storage room. The entire structure is lit with two small 12 volt bulbs with leads extending out the bottom of the base. I used clear styrene coated with dull-coat for the window glazing. This allows for a more uniform lighting effect across all windows. I was pretty pleased with the final result and I am now more confident to move onto bigger and better structure projects.

Completed HO Scale POLA Freight Station sitting showing interior lighting effects and details

I went back to work on my layout a few nights ago, working on the base structure of all the landscape and terrain. I will also be starting my second structure kit right away, my Walthers Cornerstone Merchant’s Row 1 model (kit# 993-3028).

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Plaster Terrain

The Backdrop

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 6/22/2011 08:37:00 PM

Plaster rock outcroppings attached to the face of a foamboard backdrop painted with trees, mountains and a blue sky

I originally cut the plywood backdrop to be in the shape of mountains but soon realized that it would be difficult and unrealistic to finish it this way. Instead, I decided to paint the mountains on one large backdrop. This way I could include the sky and have the backdrop extend further up to the ceiling.

Model railroad benchwork with unfinished plywood backdrop between plaster mountain structures in each corner

The first step was to build the rock outcroppings that extend out from the large and small mountains to the bridge. I only had about a 3/4" space between the track and the backdrop, so I had to make these rock outcroppings pretty thin.

Shallow, triangular homemade rock mold made from aluminum foil

I first traced the basic outline of the rock outcroppings directly onto the backdrop. I then traced paper templates and used those to start building plaster molds. I used aluminum foil to create the molds to the desired shape and depth.

Shallow, triangular homemade aluminum foil rock mold filled with plaster of Paris

I gently crinkled the foil and manipulated it with my fingers, ensuring that the grooves didn’t undercut into the plaster once I poured it. Before pouring the plaster, I coated the foil with 70% isopropyl alcohol to help the plaster settle. As soon as the plaster set, I removed it from the foil mold. This had to be done very carefully. The one castings did break as they are quite thin. Not a issue however as it was easily glued back together.

Shallow, triangular homemade plaster rock outcropping made from plaster of Paris

The blue Sharpie I traced the template with on the aluminum foil did transfer into the plaster in several areas. My recommendation would be to always draw on the OUTSIDE of your molds and not where the plaster is placed. Once the castings were completely dry, I glued the cracked sections together and verified how they fit on my layout.

Two homemade plaster rock outcroppings made from plaster of Paris with some blue marker on one edge

For the backdrop, I used large sheets of foam board which had white cardstock glued to each side. This provided a sturdy and workable surface. I made a large template out of scrap newsprint to get the correct shape I needed my backdrop to be, then traced it onto the foam board and cut it to shape.

Blank foamboard backdrop laying on a kitchen floor

I made a small sketch on paper of how I wanted the backdrop to look to make sure I had the correct look and feel. I then drew the basic locations of the mountains, tree lines, rock bluffs, etc. and got right to work painting. I used acrylic paints from the dollar store which worked great for this application.

Original sketch of a planned mountain background scene

I started with the sky, then the mountains, and last was the trees. I kept things as simple as possible for two reasons. First, I am not a professional when it comes to painting. Second, I did a lot of research on backdrops and found the more simple backdrops are usually more effective. This is because they tend to not distract from the detailed layout scenery.

A foamboard backdrop painted with trees, mountains, and a blue sky installed on a model railroad layout

Once the backdrop was dry, I fastened it to the original plywood backdrop with double-sided tape. I then glued the previously cast rock outcroppings directly to the new backdrop. Lastly, and used Poly-Filler to blend them into the rest of the layout.

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Plaster Terrain

Mountain Tunnels - Part II

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 6/12/2011 08:29:00 PM

Crumpled paper balls being placed on top of a foam tunnel structure to form a mountain shape

I started building the basic mountain structure by bunching up news print into various sized balls, held together with masking tape. I then started placing the crumpled paper balls over and beside the tunnel structure.

I started with the largest pieces first, and worked my way up with the smaller pieces. I crumpled paper into specific shapes in certain areas and rearranged the paper balls until my mountain was the basic shape I was looking for. Once everything was in place, I used long pieces of masking tape to hold all the paper in place.

Using plaster cloth that I cut into 4" strips, I started to cover the crumpled paper, overlapping each strip by about 1". I started at the top of the mountain and worked my way down, ensuring there were no gaps. I used my finger to smooth out any rough edges and to blend the strips together. I put my tunnel portals temporarily in place so I could ensure the plaster cloth and portals fit together correctly. Once the first layer of plaster cloth was dry, I put on a second layer to make it extra rigid.

Plaster cloth being applied to crumpled paper balls on foam tunnel structure to form a mountain

While the large mountain was drying, I built a second small mountain at the opposite end of my layout. I used the same method as before, arranging crumpled paper to get the desired shape, then covered it with 4" plaster cloth strips. I also added rock castings that I previously made using a Woodland Scenics rubber mold and plaster of Paris. I held the rock castings in place temporarily with toothpicks while I placed the plaster cloth around it.

Crumpled paper balls being placed in the corner of model railroad layout to form small mountain shape

Plaster cloth and cast plaster rock outcroppings being applied to crumpled paper balls to form a small mountain structure

Once the plaster cloth was dry, I used a soupy mixture of plaster of Paris to cover the entire mountain structure to give it its final shape. Now I must admit, using plaster of any type is probably my least favorite thing to do. Plaster of Paris is difficult to use as it sets extremely quickly, so there is only a small window to work with it. Therefore, you must use small batches at a time. I would have loved to use Sculpt-a-mold, but the one hobby store here in Lethbridge that sells it is closed for a month as they relocate.

Completed plaster cloth mountain structure over two tunnels with styrene tunnel portals

I attempted to carve rock faces out of the set plaster, and found this to be very difficult and mostly ineffective. The carving worked in some areas but the plaster was either too soft or too hard and just chipped away from the plaster cloth. In the problem areas, I used shallow molds that I made out of aluminum foil. This was also problematic as they need to be placed on the mountain at just the right time. If not, they would crack and crumble or the plaster would ooze out of the bottom of the mold.

First layer of plaster being applied to plaster cloth mountain structure over two tunnels with styrene tunnel portals

Plaster rock outcroppings on the side of a plaster cloth mountain structure

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Plaster Terrain

Mountain Tunnels - Part I

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 5/25/2011 08:34:00 PM

A completed expanded foam tunnel base structure with styrene tunnel portals at each end

Before I could start the mountain and tunnel, I had to finish the track. First was paint. I experimented for a few days to find a method that covered quickly and looked realistic. Since my layout is right beside my furnace and hot water tank and and lacks ventilation, spray paint and enamels were out of the question. That left me with hand brushing with water-based acrylics.

Three curved tracks with their ties painted with brown acrylic paint

To paint the track I used Burnt Umber acrylic. I mixed it with a bit of grey and thinned it with 25% water and 25% isopropyl alcohol. This mixture covered well and dried quite uniformly on the ties and in the webs of the rails. I had to use extreme caution when painting the turnouts, making sure I moved them frequently while the paint dried so they didn’t get stuck in place. Once the paint was dry, I cleaned any paint off the top of the rails using a fine grit sanding block.

Atlas turnouts with their ties painted with brown acrylic paint

A slightly curved track leading into a 60 degree rail crossing with brown painted railroad ties

I also temporarily placed my previously built tunnel portals at this point. This allowed me to determine the exact location of each portal and the overall size that my mountain and tunnels needed to be. Due to spacing limitations, I had to combine the small and large portal on the tunnel entrances on the right hand side of the mountain. I cut off 1" of the left base of the large portal and glued it to the top of the right side of the small portal. This now allows both portals to exist where they were both intended to be.

A single and double styrene tunnel portal placed on model railroad track to test fit

With the track and tunnel portals complete, I could finally start building the large mountain which the two tunnels will run through. Before I could build the mountain, I needed to build each tunnel structure which the mountain scenery will sit on. Each tunnel includes support walls and a common ceiling which acts as the base for the mountain.

Two single and two double styrene tunnel portals placed on model railroad track to test fit

The first task was to add an access point to the lower tunnel to rescue trains in the event of a derailment. The double wide tunnel is wide and short enough that I can access the inside from either end. The smaller, single tunnel which goes under the double tunnel is much longer and narrow and I cannot fit my hand through the portals. To solve this, I cut an opening in the benchwork right beside the track, allowing me access the track from underneath.

A triangular hole cut through the benchwork next to the model railroad track in the future tunnel

To keep the inside of the tunnels as dark as possible, I painted everything inside with black paint. Since there were sections of tunnel that didn’t have a complete wall to divide them, it was important that everything was blacked out so no light could leak through. I used cheap black acrylic paint from the dollar store, which worked great for this purpose.

Benchwork and foam painted black around track in the location of the future tunnel

I used Styrofoam to start building the walls. I used a combination of white glue and toothpicks to hold the foam together and keep it in place while the glue dried. Once dry, each wall section was painted black. I did visual checks on each end with my plastic tunnel portals in place to ensure that no wood or white Styrofoam was visible from any angle. If there was, I quickly covered it with black paint.

Expanded foam panels being installed beside ballasted train track to form tunnel walls

It was at this point that I realized that I almost forgot to ballast my track on the inside of the tunnels! This was an important step as the track will still be visible for a distance into each tunnel and would look very odd unfinished. Adding ballast after the tunnels were completed would also be very difficult.

A set of half ballasted model railroad tracks coming out of a styrene tunnel portal

I used Woodland Scenics Medium Buff ballast. This, like most everything else, was my first time ballasting track. Doing the tunnel sections first was a great place to start and practice as they will be a lot less noticeable once the tunnel is complete.

A ballasted model railroad track leading into a styrene tunnel portal

I used a ballasting method that I found to be most popular in my online research. This method is to lay the ballast on the track and shoulders, then use a brush to level it between the ties and make it uniform. Using alcohol and an eye-dropper (pipette), gently wet the ballast. This reduces the water tension when adding the glue, allowing it to wick better through the ballast. Once the alcohol soaks in, apply a liberal amount of white glue, thinned 50% with water and let this soak in as well. Be careful not to add too much glue at once or your ballast with start to flow away. Once the glue completely cures (about 24 hours) the ballast will be hard as concrete.

One thing I learned from this first ballast attempt is to not use too much ballast. You can always add more but using too much makes things messy, and it’s almost impossible to brush all of the granules off of the tops of the ties. Model Railroader Magazine has a really good article in their February 2011 edition about ballasting track. They explain a two-part application process of ballasting, where you first apply glue, then ballast, then re-apply ballast and glue again. This method looks really nice in the end. I just might try this when I complete the rest of my track.

Expanded foam and basswood panels being installed beside ballasted train track to form tunnel walls

The entrance to each portal is the most visible so it was important that there were complete walls on both sides of each portal. These needed extend far enough into the tunnel so you could not see that it ended. I places I didn't have room for Styrofoam walls, I used 1/16” basswood as a divider. This prevented light from entering either of the portal entrances, showing through to either the top or lower tunnels.

Once I ensured the tunnel portals fit correctly, I did a final visual inspection to make sure everything was pitch black inside. I then used a large template to cut a solid foam roof panel for the entire tunnel structure. I attached foam supports on the backdrop to support the back and left edge of the roof structure. I painted the roof and foam supports black then and glued it into place.

Any gaps were filled in with carefully cut pieces of foam. Upon my final inspection, there was not a single sliver of light visible inside the tunnels. Now I have a solid tunnel structure which my mountain can be built upon without any possibility of affecting the tunnels themselves.

Freight Station by POLA

The Backdrop

Mountain Tunnels - Part II

Mountain Tunnels - Part I

Tunnel Portals from Scratch

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