Cutting's Scissor Co. Kit by DPM Landmark Structures

By Ty’s Model Railroad - 3/28/2012 11:21:00 PM

Completed DMP Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit

The Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit is my second structure kit from Design Preservation Models. My layout does not have much more room for commercial or residential structures, but I do require a couple more industrial structures to fill some empty real estate. I started by removing any edge spurs left from manufacturing with a sharp knife and sanded the edges of the wall pieces so they were a perfect 90 degrees. This ensured a good fit when gluing the model together. This step is required on most DPM kits as the structure joints are not at a perfect 90 degrees and constructing the model without sanding will result in large gaps in the corner joints.

An unpainted model of a DPM Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit without the roof installed that shows roof supports

After sanding the required pieces, I washed them in warm, soapy water to remove any oils that my hands may have left on them. Once dry, I glued the walls carefully together on a level surface, ensuring the wall pieces fit together perfectly and evenly. I made sure each corner was square by using a square wood dowel on the inside of each corner joint. 

An unpainted constructed model of a DPM Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit with roof installed

Once the structure had dried for an hour, I cut 2 roof sections from a sheet of supplied styrene. I also glued on the roof supports which were also supplied in the kit via a bulk length of strip styrene. I did not glue the roof panels on at this point as I needed the roof open to add window glazing and interior details later on. The kit also calls for awnings over the loading bays using a leftover piece of styrene from the roof structures. I opted for a textured styrene awning that I had left over in my scrap bin, which looked more authentic. I also added horizontal supports for the awnings using narrow strip styrene. 

A partially painted DPM Cutting Scissor Co. kit with masking tape around windows and building trim

After two coats of brick red paint had dried, I masked the structure so I could paint the building trim, windows, and doors. Masking takes time, and as hard as I try to paint free hand, I can never achieve the same crisp lines and accuracy as I do when I mask. I use a small flat head jeweler’s screwdriver to press the masking tape into tight corners and on narrow edges to make sure paint doesn’t bleed underneath. Bleeding paint isn’t 100% avoidable, but is easy enough to touch up in the final steps of painting. 

Fully painted Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit with decals that read Velikovsky’s Distributers

Once the model was painted, I weathered it lightly with pastel powder and applied a dry transfer decal (Velikovski’s Distributors) to the exterior wall. The last paint layer was a final spray of dull-coat to seal everything in. I applied clear styrene for window glazing then cut and applied printed paper blinds to the inside of the windows (click here for my printable blind templates)

Scratch built removable interior showing a light bulb and electrical wiring for a DPM Cutting Scissor’s Co. kit

As most previous structures I have built, the interior is completely removable from the building structure. By simply sliding the exterior shell off, I can easily access the lights and add interior details in the future. The interior structure is built in such a way that once fully inserted into the building’s shell, the building looks as if it is full of separate rooms when looking through any of the small windows. This prevents a 'see through' look. Craft paper was used for texture and colour on the floors and walls. 

Scratch built removable interior made from styrene and cardstock for a DPM Cutting Scissor’s Co. kit

Two small automotive bulbs light the structure. Since the interior walls only rise as high as the tops of the windows and don’t go right to the roof, I installed the bulbs above the interior rooms so one bulb could light multiple rooms. Aluminum foil installed on the underside of the roof structure helps reflect the light downward into the rooms and keeps heat from melting the roof structure. I used narrow bare steel wire to supply power to the bulbs. I also used this type of wire to support the bulbs so they wouldn’t have to be attached directly to the styrene structure. Just be careful the bare wires don’t get crossed or you will have a nasty short on your hands. 

Scratch built removable interior showing a light bulb and electrical wiring for a DPM Cutting Scissor’s Co. kit

The last step was to attach the roof structures to the model. Once the styrene roof was glued to its supports and had dried, I applied a thin layer of medium cinders on top of the roof and leveled it with a folded piece of paper. Using a small pipette, I gently soaked the cinders with isopropyl alcohol. I then used the a pipette to apply white glue thinned with water. After drying overnight, the cinders were securely fastened to the model. 

Scratch built interior being inserting into a completed Cutting Scissor’s Co. kit structure

Completed DMP Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit

Completed DMP Cutting’s Scissor Co. kit with illuminated interior

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